INTRODUCTION
Welcome to the PatternMaker Men/Young Men’s
Collection! This collection contains four basic garments to use as suit
pieces. The patterns can also be modified to make more casual garments.
We suggest you make a fitting muslin at least when
sewing the first jacket or vest. If you don't, you can provide for
alterations after the garment is complete by adding extra seam
allowance.
WHAT ARE MACROS?
Each PatternMaker macro is a small computer program
which is run by PatternMaker. You will be asked to make some style
choices and type in your measurements. The program then does some
calculations and draws a garment pattern. These are complete patterns,
ready to cut out and sew. All of these macros have been tested in
commercial use for a wide range of sizes and measurements. Once you make
a pattern from a macro, you can change it to create your own individual
garment.
Most of these garments require an intermediate or
advanced level of sewing skill. If you do not already know how to
assemble a garment, sew buttonholes, etc., you will need to refer to a
general sewing text as well as these instructions.
PatternMaker has many patternmaking features, and the
macros are a good way to start learning about them. Use this booklet to
get started making patterns. Practice the tutorials to see how some of
the PatternMaker commands are used, and read the User’s Manual to learn
the details.
OVERVIEW
Here’s what you need to do to make your new set of garments with PatternMaker:
•Take your measurements. Everything
else depends on having good measurements. The measurement form included
in this package provides detailed instructions on how to take the
measurements. Read the instructions carefully, and be very careful when
taking the
PatternMaker Software and Leena Lahteenmaki
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Men/Young Men’s Collection Rev. 4/00
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measurements.
If you want to make clothes for more than one person,
photocopy the measurement form (both sides) for each subject. Don’t
write on the original before you copy it! You will use these
measurements for all the macros, so keep the form in a safe place for
future reference. Don’t forget to fill in the name and date – you may
not remember whose measurements these are a few months from now.
•Make a test muslin. This
is especially important the first time you use the macros to make sure
your measurements are good. Make a test garment out of inexpensive
fabric before you cut into your actual garment fabric. If the test
garment doesn’t fit right, adjust your measurements and try again.
•Run the macro for the garment you want. PatternMaker
will ask you for some measurements, which you will type in. Then it
will draw the pattern. If you already have a pattern on the screen, the
new items will be added to it. You can now use all of PatternMaker’s
various features to modify your pattern, if you wish. Or you can just
print it out and sew it.
•Add seam allowances. The
macros in this collection do not automatically draw seam allowances for
the patterns, so if you want a printed seam allowance, use the OFFSET
command to add it. Suggested amounts are ¼ inch (.5 cm) for collars, (½
inch (1 cm) for most seams and 1½ inch (3 cm) for trouser hems.
•Arrange for printing. You may need to use the MOVE and ROTATE commands to arrange the pieces for the most efficient printing.
•Print your pattern. If
you have a small desktop printer, you will need to tape the pages
together. The pages will be marked to make it easy to assemble them.
•Cut out and sew your new garment. This
booklet gives you most of the sewing instructions you need, but always
rely on your common sense. We hope you enjoy your new clothes!
RUNNING A MACRO
When you first start the PatternMaker program, you will see a blank drawing area. To
run the macros, select the MACRO command from the File menu, or click
on the icon which has the word MAC. (Users of PatternMaker Basic should
select OPEN from the File menu, or click the OPEN icon.)
A dialog box will ask you to select a file. Each
macro is a separate file in your PatternMaker directory. Descriptions of
each macro are given later in this book. The file names in this
collection are:
•
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MJACKET
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•
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MPANTS
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• MSHIRT
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• MVEST
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•
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TBPANTS
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•
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TBSHIRT
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Click on the name of the file, and then click “OK”. It may take a few seconds for PatternMaker to load the macro.
A dialog box will now ask you for the measurements.
The illustration at the right shows the first of two measurements dialog
boxes. Fill these in from your measurement chart. Remember to use decimal numbers:
.125
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1/4
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.25
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3/8
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.375
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1/2
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.5
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5/8
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.625
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3/4
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.75
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7/8
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.875
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Be careful to enter the right numbers in the right spaces. When you are ready, click “OK” or press the <Enter> key.
You may have to wait a minute for the macro to run,
especially if you don’t have a fast computer. You will know the macro is
done when the hourglass cursor changes back to an arrow and the word Command: appears on the prompt line.
IF YOU CANNOT SEE THE PATTERN PIECES, OR IF YOU ONLY
SEE PART OF THEM, PRESS THE <END> KEY TO VIEW ALL THE PIECES IN
THE DRAWING.
Look at your macro
The macro will draw your new pattern in the drawing
area. If you already have a drawing, the new items will be added to the
existing ones. To zoom out and see the entire pattern, press the
<END> key. To zoom in, use <F2> or <F3>. Use the arrow
keys to move up, down, left, and right. (See the PAN and ZOOM commands
in the Help file.)
ARRANGE YOUR PATTERN
Now, you can use the PatternMaker editing features to
make changes to your pattern. PatternMaker has tools to make almost any
alteration. Some simple changes you may want to make before you print
are:
•Erasing an object (ERASE command)
•Add seam allowances (OFFSET command)
•Moving an object (MOVE command)
•Rotating an object 90 or 180 degrees (ROTATE command)
•Label your pieces (TEXT command)
Refer to the User’s Manual or the Help file for detailed instructions on these commands.
IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE
If you make a mistake in one of the above operations,
you can use the UNDO command to undo your last change. The Undo icon
looks like a letter “U.” If you make a really big mistake, you can use
the New command (on the File menu) to start all over. Luckily, this
isn’t hard to do.
READ THE MANUAL
Here are some other commands you’ll want to learn before long. Look them up in the User’s Manual or the on-line Help system.
•MOVE VERTEX to adjust shapes
•SET LINE to draw dotted lines
•COLOR to draw in different colors
•GROUP to keep groups of things together
•DIM and SET/MEASURE DISTANCE to check measurements
•POLY to draw your own objects
•COPY and MIRROR to copy objects
•LAYER to hide things from view
Note: These commands are available only in the Home Version and higher.
PRINT YOUR PATTERN
Before you print out your pattern, you should use the
MOVE command to arrange the pieces in the most efficient way you can,
to save paper. The pieces aren’t arranged for you, because the best
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arrangement will depend on your measurements and the
size of the printer you have. If possible, arrange the pieces to fit
within a rectangle no wider than your printer’s page size. Make sure you
leave enough room for seam allowances, if you didn’t already add them.
We assume you already have your printer set up and
working. PatternMaker works with any Windows- driven printing or
plotting device. If you have a printer with tractor-feed paper, print in Landscape mode to make the pages connect in the correct order.
See “Printing a pattern” in the Help file for details
about the various Print commands, and “Assembling a printed pattern”
for instructions on putting the pages together.
TESTING MEASUREMENTS WITH TEST GARMENT
Things to check for:
•back width is correct
•sleeve length is correct
•width is correct on chest, waist, and hip
If your body is asymmetrical:
You will have to check separate measurements for each side of your body. This can be tested with the sample garment, too.
Does it look right?
If your new, modified pattern looks better, it
probably is. If it looks wrong, it probably is. Keep experimenting until
you have a pattern that corrects all the fitting problems in your first
muslin.
When you have determined what changes will make your
bodice fit correctly, write down the new measurements and make another
fitting muslin. If this fits properly, save the corrected numbers on
your measurement chart.
Important – Use the corrected measurements for all
macro patterns. Remember that the purpose of making the fitting muslin
is to find the correct values for the measurements on the chart. Once
you have got these right, use the same values for all the other macros.
Don’t use the old numbers. Ease for each pattern is added by the
program.
ABOUT EASE
We do not include an ease chart for the men's
garments because it is usually not necessary to make many ease
adjustments for men's garments. Remember that the macros automatically
add fitting and styling ease.
You should not change your actual body measurements
in order to increase or decrease ease. It won’t work. You don’t know all
the measurements which have to be changed or cannot change them as the
program calculates some measurements for you.
MEN/YOUNG MEN’S GARMENT MACRO DESCRIPTIONS:
VEST (MVEST.MAC)
Lined vest, to be worn either with a suit or by itself.
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MENS’ SHIRT (MSHIRT.MAC)
This model can also be used for a casual shirt. Convert this pattern to a T-shirt
or a sweater by leaving the button placket and back pleat out, and
joining back yoke and back piece into a single piece. Sew short sleeves
if desired.
This pattern can also be used as a basis for a sport
coat by adding width to all vertical seams and drawing a different
collar with Collars macro. In that case sleeves are sewn without cuffs.
PANTS (MPANTS.MAC)
Men's casual or dress slacks. To convert these to sew
sport slacks with elastic waist, cut front and back pieces vertically
in two and add width to the pieces (5-10 cm each). Add ribbing to leg cuffs if desired.
JACKET (MJACKET.MAC)
Suit jacket. This is for advanced sewers only, so the
instructions will assume that you already understand jacket
construction. Note: for a sport coat, modify shirt pattern as discussed
above.
Note that the facing pieces (dashed lines) are drawn
on top of the pieces they belong with. You should move them apart before
printing and cutting them.
YOUNG MEN’S SHIRT (TBSHIRT.MAC)
Similar to men’s shirt, but does not have back yoke piece. Also has slightly fuller sleeves.
YOUNG MEN’S PANTS (TBPANTS.MAC)
Same as men’s pants.
COLLARS (COLLARS.MAC)
This macro is provided free of charge in the PatternMaker demo. Included are a two-piece shirt collar, shirt mock-collar,
and two different kinds of convertible collars. Use these collars as
variations on the standard collars. Convertible collars have pointed and
rounded versions. Before you run this macro, run the macro for the
garment you will use it with and measure the neckline length with the
Set/Measure Distance function. The collar measurement you enter in the
dialog box is the circumference of the garment neck, not the actual body
measurement.
These collars can also be used for jackets in which case you might want to make them about 1 cm wider on outer edge. Two-piece shirt collar’s lower part can also be used separately for Chinese collar.
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
•When you
buy your fabric, ask how much it will shrink when washed. In all cases,
when the fabric is washable and when you are not sure that the fabric
won't shrink, it is safe to wash and iron it before cutting. Don't
forget to preshrink lining as well.
•Cut
pattern pieces on folded fabric, right side of the fabric folded
inwards. Make the necessary marks on the fabric with chalk or pencil. If
the fabric is plaid, striped or checkered, align the hem
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lines at the same point on the repeating pattern. For
sleeves, the repeating pattern should match where the bottom of the
armscye and bottom of sleeve cap meet. Vertical centerline of sleeve
should be placed at a vertical stripe or at center of a plaid square.
Jacket, blouse and dress front center should be placed the same way.
•Transfer
notch marks from your pattern to the fabric by cutting snips (depth 1/4
inch/5 mm) into seam allowances. When joining garment pieces, place
corresponding notch marks in the two pieces together.
•Cut and
iron interfacings onto under collars, facings, waist bands, slit
facings, blouse and shirt button extensions and sleeve cuffs. If you use
interfacing at jacket's hem seam allowance, you get a neat hem.
•If you
sew a patch pocket and don't line it, fasten interfacing to it also.
Woven interfacing gives the best results. The macros draw all facings on
top of the garment pieces, with dashed lines. If you want to print them
apart from the pieces, use the Move command to move them before
printing.
•Cut
lining along with garment patterns without space for facings (but
remember to add seam allowances) and hem seam allowances. Do not cut
lining for collars. Lining fabric usually is not as elastic as garment
fabric, so cut it with about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) wider seam allowances
than for the garment pieces.
•Use the longest possible machine stitches for basting. It is quick and the stitches can easily be removed.
•The
macros make the patterns without seam allowances. If you want to add
seam allowances, use PatternMaker's Draw Offset and Draw Seam Allowances
commands. The suggested seam widths are 3/8 inch (1 cm) for most seams,
and 1 - 1/2 inch (4 cm) for hems and sleeve ends without cuffs. When
you are sewing your first garment with PatternMaker patterns, add extra
seam allowance so that you can make corrections to the garment if it
should be necessary.
•You will
get the best result if you always press seams and darts as you sew.
First iron seams or darts flat without turning them to either direction.
Then press them towards center, side seam towards front. Two-piece
sleeve seams are both pressed towards shoulder mark. Use a steam iron.
If you press seams from right side of the fabric, use pressing cloth if
necessary.
•Edgestitching gives a well-finished look to garment, but only if it is straight and even. Long stitches of 1/4 inch (4-5 mm) look best in edgestitching. Sew edgestitching only after you have ironed the seam.
HOW TO FASTEN WAISTBAND to pants
1.Iron
interfacing to wrong side of waistband. Overlock edges. Fold waistband
lengthwise, right sides out, and press. Sew one horizontal edge of
waistband to garment, right sides together, (1). Space for button and
buttonhole extension extends beyond center front mark at each end of the
band. Garment’s waist should always be slightly larger than waistband.
Easestitch garment waist to fit waistband.
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2.Fold waistband lengthwise, right side inside, and sew across one end (buttonhole end)
(2). Cut corners and turn waistband right side out.
Press seam allowance upward (raw edges of seam will be inside waistband
when finished).
3.Fold
seam allowance of waistband in about 2 inches (5 cm) from each end but
leave rest of waistband seam allowance flat (flat makes it easier to
catch when sewing through from the right side, but leaves the raw edge
on the wrong side of the skirt instead of tucked into the waistband).
Stitch on right side of garment along first stitch line (4) called
“stitch in the ditch.” Sew button hole and fasten button.
HOW TO SEW POCKETS
Flap, welt or buttonhole pocket: The techniques for these three kinds of pockets are similar. The difference lies in treatment of the pocket opening.
1.Garment
preparation: First, decide on the width of the pocket opening, also
called the pocket line or cutting line. Mark the pocket line with a
pencil on the wrong side of the garment. Transfer markings to the right
side with basting thread (2).
2.Cut a
piece of interfacing measuring 1¼ in. (3 cm) wide and 1½ in. (4 cm)
longer than pocket line. Baste or press interfacing to wrong side of
garment.
3.Stitch a
rectangle or “box” around pocket line as in picture (3). The edge
pieces for flap, welt, or buttonhole opening are attached to the garment
along this stitched “box.” The rectangular “box” is about ¾ inch (2 cm)
high and the length of the pocket opening.
4.Cut
flap, welt, or buttonhole pieces along the straight grain of fabric, as
described below. Always include seam allowances. Press interfacing to
wrong side of pieces. Fold pieces as described, and place on right side
of garment. With machine basting, fasten edge pieces to stitched “box”
as described below.
a)Flap Cut
two pieces with a finished width equal to the cutting line plus seam
allowances and a finished length sufficient to cover the stitched “box.”
Interface. Place pocket flaps right sides together and stitch along
sides. Leave raw edge to be fastened to garment. Turn piece right side
out, open seams well and press. Edgestitch if desired (1).
b)Buttonhole The buttonhole pocket mouth has two narrow folded strips of fabric meeting in the center of the stitched “box.”
Cut a strip of fabric, width 1½ “ (4 cm) and long
enough for all the pockets. For the length of the strip, multiply the
length of each pocket plus seam allowances, by twice the number of
pockets.
Iron interfacing to strips, fold them in half
lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press lightly. Overlock raw edges of
strips. Machine baste strips ¼” (6 mm) from the folded edge to mark
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stitching line. Place two strips on the rectangular
“box,” with the folded edges meeting over the pocket cutting line, and
machine basting over the stitch lines of the “box.” Zigzag the folded
edges together to hold them in place until the pocket is completed, then
remove the zigzag. Stitch rectangle again from wrong side.
c)Welt Cut
welt piece with a length two seam allowances longer than the stitched
rectangle. Welt piece height is twice the stitched box height, plus two
seam allowances. Normal height of finished welt piece is ½” (1-2 cm). Interface welt, overlock raw edges and fold lengthwise wrong sides together.
Place welt on the stitched rectangle with the welt
seam line along lower stitching line of “box.” Folded edge faces down,
and raw edge is turned upward toward the “box” center. From wrong side,
stitch around “box” rectangle again.
5.Attach pocket piece: Cut a rectangle with width 2½ -4½ inches (4-6
cm) greater than pocket line and length twice the desired pocket depth,
about 16 inches (40 cm) total (4). If you don’t have enough garment
fabric, the lower half can be of pocket lining fabric.
6.Pin
pocket fabric to right side of garment over the pocket opening and the
attached edging. Place the horizontal centerline of pocket fabric onto
the upper edge of the stitched rectangle.
Working from the wrong side of garment (5), stitch again over the stitched “box.”
7.On
wrong side of garment, slash rectangle along pocket center line and
diagonally to the rectangle corners. Cut the garment and pocket material
carefully along cutting line, being careful not to cut stitching (6).
DO NOT CUT POCKET FLAP, BUTTONHOLE, OR WELT pieces.
8.Pull pocket through the opening; turn pocket to inside and press well. Edgestitch over the rectangle.
9.Turn pocket downwards, sew and overlock pocket edges (8) together. Press.
10.Turn
pocket edging to its correct position on the right side of garment,
press well (7). Topstitch the edging treatment as appropriate to make
sure it lies flat.
PATCH POCKET WITH LINING
Note: An unlined patch pocket requires interfacing on the wrong side of pocket.
1.Cut
pocket lining using the pocket pattern minus facing (1). Iron
interfacing to pocket facing (2). With right sides together, stitch
pocket lining to upper edge of pocket, leaving an unsewn opening about
2” (5 cm) for turning (3). Turn lining (4). Stitch sides and lower
edges.
2.Trim
seam. For square pocket, cut seam diagonally across lower corners. For
rounded pocket, notch curves as in picture. Open seams well and press.
3.Turn
pocket right side out and slipstitch opening. Topstitch upper edge about
1” (2.5 cm) from top. Pin pocket to garment. Stitch along sides and
edges of pocket, simultaneously edgestitching it.
HOW TO SEW ZIPPER to pants
1.Sew
seam to the point where zipper begins and mark zipper’s full length with
basting. Press the seam open. Remove basting stitches.
2.Mark
front (or back) centerline with basting (1). Fold one seam allowance of
zipper placket at about ¼” (0.5 cm) distance from front (or back)
centerline (2). Sew one zipper edge under the extended seam allowance
(3).
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3. Close zipper placket temporarily with pins on right side of garment (4). On wrong side pin other
zipper edge flat on seam allowance (5). Make certain
that the zipper is straight and lies flat at an even distance from
edges of seam allowance. Remove pins from right side. Sew from wrong
side through all thicknesses, across bottom and up the pinned edge of
zipper near zipper teeth.
If you want to, you can sew a second row of stitches one presser foot’s distance from the first one
(7). If you are making jeans or other pants that
need to be very strong, strengthen bottom of zipper placket with tight
zigzag (bartack) on right side.
For an unnoticeable zipper placket:
Sew zipper directly onto garment seam, placing
zipper upside down on a basted seam on wrong side of garment. The
distance between the seam and the zipper stitching is the width of the
presser foot. Basting is removed after sewing. This kind of a zipper is
good for a dress back seam and is also widely used in skirts.
HOW TO SEW COLLARS for shirts
1.Iron
interfacing to two under collar pieces (both collar band and collar)
(1). Fold neckline seam allowance of collar band inwards and baste (2).
2.Sew collar together at outer edges, leaving lower edge raw. Trim seam allowance at corners.
3.Turn collar right side out, open seams well and press. Edgestitch.
4.Sew
upper collar band pieces together at upper seam, sandwiching collar
between them. Leave neckline edge raw. Trim seam allowance at corners
and at curves. Turn collar right side out, open seams well and press.
5.Stitch
collar assembly to shirt/blouse neck along raw edge, right side of
collar against wrong side of shirt/blouse. Turn seam allowance up. Pin
basted edge of collar on shirt’s/blouse’s neck to right side. Baste.
Blindstitch or stitch. Edgestitch lower part of collar.
6.Sew
convertible collars accordingly (5). Notice that convertible collars are
placed at front center of shirt/blouse and not over extension for
buttons as for shirt collar.
HOW TO ATTACH COLLARS
1.For
the collar, cut 2 pieces of fabric and 1 piece of interfacing. The under
collar piece is on the inside, hidden by the upper piece, when the
garment is completed.
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2.Overlock
button placket and front center edges. Sew front center seam from hem
to where button placket begins (1). Fold button placket inwards along
fold line and sew along bottom (2) and top
(3) ends from fold line to front center. Cut seam
allowances diagonally at point where seam ends, so that button placket
can be turned right side out.
3.Turn
button placket right side out (4). Place button plackets' front center
marks on top of each other and sew a box at bottom end of placket.
Stitch through all layers of fabric.
4.Iron interfacing to under collar. Turn bottom seam allowance of under collar inside and baste (5).
5.Place
collar pieces with right sides together and sew along edges (6). Trim
seam allowances and cut corners. Turn right side out.
6.Sew
raw edge of upper collar to shell's neck from front center to front
center, right sides together. Press seam allowance upwards and pin
basted edge of under collar on top of previous seam. Sew. If you have
difficulties in sewing a neat collar, sew basted edge of under collar by
hand.
HOW TO SEW AND ATTACH SLEEVE CUFFS
1.Fold in seam allowance of one long edge of sleeve cuff and baste (1).
2.Fold cuffs horizontally in two, right sides inside, and sew along ends
(2). Note that seam allowance of one edge has been
folded in, but the other is unfolded, so the edges don't meet. Cut seam
allowance diagonally at corners and turn cuffs right side out.
3.Cut slits at ends of sleeves and
overlock edges. Turn seam allowances inside and
edgestitch on right side (3). Fold slit with right side inside and sew
across bottom of slit (4).
4.Fold
ease of sleeve ends into soft pleats near split (5). Sew raw edges of
cuffs to sleeve ends with right side of cuff against wrong side of
sleeve. Turn seam allowance inside cuffs and press. Pin basted edge of
cuff onto previous seam and edgestitch from right side.
5.Sew buttonholes and attach buttons to cuffs.
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SEWING THE SHIRT
Note: Men’s shirt can be sewn according to the
instructions for Women’s Blouse, as follows. Shirt, however, does not
have front dividing seams or back darts.
1.Fold
front edge's seam allowances (1 cm) inwards and baste (1). Fold again,
but now with right side inside along button extension fold line. Stitch
button extension across top and bottom edges
(2). If you are going to sew convertible collar to
blouse, stitch top end from fold only to center front, and cut seam
allowance diagonally there. Turn button extension to its proper position
and sew along folded edge of seam allowance on wrong side.
2.Sew and overlock front dividing seams (3). Sew back shoulder and waist darts (4). Sew and overlock shoulder seams.
3.Fasten
collar according to instructions above. Sew convertible collar
beginning from front center, and shirt collar beginning from edge of
button extension (fold).
4.Cut
sleeve slits at sleeve ends. Overlock slit edges, turn inwards and
edgestitch (5). Stitch across end of slits on wrong side (6).
5.Easestitch
sleeve cap at distance of normal seam allowance (7). Sew sleeves to
armscyes along ease stitching, right sides together, sleeves' shoulder
mark matching blouse's shoulder seams. Pull ends of easestitching along
cap to adjust ease. If there tends to be too much ease in sleeve cap
(some fabrics tolerate more ease than others do), place sleeve lower at
armpit. There should be as much ease as possible but no wrinkles at cap
seams when ready. Overlock.
6.Sew and overlock sleeve and side seams continuously from blouse hem to sleeve end.
7.Fold
in seam allowance of one long edge of sleeve cuff and baste (8). Fold
cuffs horizontally in two, right sides inside, and sew along ends. Note
that seam allowance of one edge has been folded in and the other is not
folded, so the edges don't meet. Cut seam allowance diagonally at
corners and turn cuffs right side out. Fold ease of sleeve ends into
soft pleats at distance between slit and sleeve center line.
8.Sew
raw edges of cuffs to sleeve ends with cuff's right side against wrong
side of sleeve. Turn seam allowance inside cuffs and edgestitch basted
edges to sleeves from right side.
9.Fold hem allowance twice and sew. Sew buttonholes and fasten buttons to front center and to sleeve cuffs.
SEWING THE PANTS
Pattern pieces include:
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Pants front: Cut two pieces. Two styles are available – either with darts or with pleats. Mark the darts or pleats, but do not cut them.
Pants back: Cut two pieces. Do not cut out the darts.
Waistband: Cut one on fold of fabric. Waistband piece includes a 1½” extension for button and buttonhole.
Pockets: Cut two pieces for each pocket. One piece is of trouser fabric and one of lining material.
Interfacing: Cut an interfacing piece for the waistband, using the waistband pattern cut in half lengthwise.
Lining: For trouser lining, use pants pattern pieces. Cut two front pieces and two back pieces.
DARTS AND PLEATS (1)
To make darts in front or back, fold the dart lines
with right sides together. Stitch on the dart lines. Press fold of dart
toward center of garment.
To make pleats in each FRONT, bring pleat lines right sides together and pin or baste them at top.
BACK SEAM (2)
Sew and overlock back center seam, with elastic stitching if possible.
FRONT SEAM AND ZIPPER (3-4)
Overlock front center seam and edges of zipper
placket. Sew front center seam from inside seam to where zipper placket
begins (3).
Fasten zipper according to general instructions above.
POCKETS (5-6)
Cut front piece pocket corner off, don't forget to add seam allowance.
Put a reinforcing strip of non-elastic
fabric (not included in pattern) into the seam to prevent pocket mouth
from stretching during use. Place pocket lining along slacks front
piece's pocket line, right sides together, and sew (5). Turn pocket
lining inside and edgestitch pocket mouth. Sew another row of stitches
at presser foot's width from the first row of stitches. Place pocket
corner pieces under pocket lining with round edges matching. Sew and
overlock them together, leaving pocket mouth open
(6).
LEG SEAMS (7-8)
Place front and back sections of slacks on top of
each other, right sides together. Sew and overlock outside seams. Sew
and overlock inside leg seams from cuff to cuff.
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LINING (optional)
Lining is optional, depending on fabric and style.
For a full lining, waistband is attached to trousers and lining
together. For a front lining only, handle front garment and front lining
pieces as if they were one.
For a full lining, cut lining pieces using pants
front and back patterns. Overlock all edges. Fold darts into pleats and
baste at seam allowance. Stitch back seam. Stitch front seam from crotch
to beginning of zipper placket allowance. Fold seam allowance of
placket opening inside and edgestitch.
Place front and back pieces of lining right sides
together; stitch together along side seams. Stitch and overlock leg
inside seams from cuff to cuff. Press seam open. Fold hem border in
twice and baste or pin into position.
Turn lining inside out. Pin to pants at the waist,
wrong sides together with side seams matching. Attach waistband,
handling pants and lining as one. Tack placket lining carefully to
zipper tape, about ¼” from zipper teeth. Check hem length of lining, and
stitch hem.
WAISTBAND
Fasten waistband according to general instructions above.
CUFFS
Overlock cuffs, fold cuff allowances inwards and press. Blindstitch with machine or by hand.
SEWING THE JACKET
(refer to illustration on following page)
Notes:
•Remember
that the macros do not automatically add seam allowances. You should do
this yourself with the OFFSET command before printing the pieces.
•When cutting the pieces, do not add seam allowance to pocket mouth.
•When
cutting pieces, cut upper collar piece about ¼ inch (½ cm) bigger at
outer edges. This forces the collar to turn down to its correct position
when it is done.
•Notice that you must add width for a pleat to the back lining piece. This is shown in (18) in the illustration below.
APPLY INTERFACING
Iron interfacing to jacket's front facing and back
neck. Interfacing is also ironed to under collar and pocket welts or
flaps. If you want the jacket to be very "stiff," iron interfacing to
jacket's front piece as well. It is also good to iron interfacing to
jacket's hem – set it in just beyond the hem seam allowance.
FRONT/BACK SEAMS, FRONT DART, POCKET (1-7)
Sew and then overlock all vertical seams on body.
Collar, shoulder and sleeve seams do not need to be overlocked. Press
all seams after sewing and overlocking them.
13
Men/Young Men’s Collection
Sew front waist dart (1). Stitch pocket mouth edges
together with temporary zigzag stitches (2). To strengthen pocket mouth,
iron interfacing to its wrong side (3). Do the same with the section of
pocket mouth on the side panel (4). Sew front piece to side panel,
right sides of material together (5). Use
the standard pocket techniques (in separate manual)
to attach the pockets. The kind of pocket openings to use, and exactly
where to place them, are styling decisions for you to make. If you sew a
patch pocket at hip, place it so that it covers the zigzagged pocket
mouth. Attach welt, buttonhole or flap pocket onto zigzagged pocket
mouth.
Sew back pieces to front/side piece (6) and back seam (7), right side against right side..
SLEEVES (8-12)
The sleeves come in two pieces, top and bottom.
Place bottom piece on top of upper sleeve, right side against right
side, and sew from corner of sleeve cap to where button placket begins
(8). Sew from there around button placket (9 and 10). Baste button
placket fold line (11). Press button placket under upper sleeve and
remove basting. Fold inside and press seam allowance at cuff. Check that
length of sleeves is correct, then sew buttons to button placket. Sew
them through all layers of fabric. Buttonholes are optional.
Easestitch sleeve cap, allowing a seam allowance of
1/4 inch (1/2 cm) (12). Sew front seam of sleeves. Turn sleeves right
side out and jacket wrong side out. Place sleeves inside jacket (right
side against right side) so that sleeves' shoulder marks match with
jacket shoulder seams. Insert sleeves by sewing along easestitches.
Adjust ease by pulling on the stitching in the ease cap. Sew sleeve cap
to jacket. If there tends to be too much ease at sleeve cap (some
fabrics tolerate more ease than others do), you can adjust this by
placing sleeves lower at armpit. There should be as much ease as
possible, but no wrinkles at cap seams, when done.
COLLAR (13-17)
As noted above, cut upper collar about 1/4 inch (1/2
cm) bigger at outer edges. This forces the collar to turn down to its
correct position when it is done. Place under collar on upper collar,
right side against right side, and sew along edges (13). Trim seam
allowances and cut corners before turning the collar right side out.
Turn collar right side out and press. Edgestitch if desired.
Place collar on jacket neckline, with right side of
under collar piece against jacket's right side. Sew from shoulder (14)
to lapel corner (15). Cut jacket's neck seam allowance at corner (16).
Now turn jacket's lapel under the collar and sew from lapel corner to
lapel notch mark (from 16 to 17). After having sewn both ends of collar
to lapels, attach the rest of the collar to jacket's back neck. If you
have difficulties in this (collar will be a bit longer than neck), first
easestitch jacket neck at distance of normal seam allowance.
14
LINING (18-20)
The entire lining is assembled separately as follows, then attached to the rest of the jacket as
a unit. When cutting jacket lining, cut extra width
at top part of back piece (18). Sew lining's back seam at edge. Baste
extra width along back center seam to make a soft pleat. Iron the pleat,
then remove the basted stitches.
Sew front pieces of lining to side panels (19) and
front/side pieces to back piece (20). Fold hem of lining in twice and
sew. The lining should be an inch or so (about 2 cm) shorter than the
jacket when done. Fasten jacket's front facing to lining's front edges,
right side against right side. Sew shoulder seams. Attach sleeves to
lining as you did with jacket shell.
JOIN JACKET AND LINING
To join jacket and lining, place the lining on top of the jacket with right side against right side.
Leave collar in between and upside down. Sew a
continuous seam as follows: across hem of front facing, along one front
edge, around neck to other front edge and finally across other front
facing. Leave jacket hem open. Snip seam allowance at starting point of
lapels and at neck seam at about 1
inch (2 cm) intervals. Cut corners diagonally
(including at front of hem) so that you will be able to turn it right
side out.. Turn lining inside jacket. Open seams well and press.
Edgestitch if desired. Attach lining to sleeve ends.
Sew hem with invisible stitches. Sew buttonholes and fasten buttons. Do a final pressing.
SEWING THE VEST
Vests are made with both a lining and a shell. For
vests that are worn with a jacket, both shell and lining in back are
usually made of lining material.
The following uses a rare and ingenious way of
lining a vest, which we have been very pleased with. The same method can
be used for lining ladies' and children's vests.
FRONT DARTS, FACING, AND LINING (1-7)
Sew darts closed on front shell (1) and lining (2).
Iron interfacing to front facing (3) and to armscye facings (4). Sew
front facing to front lining right side against right side (5). Zigzag
armscye facings onto linings, wrong side of lining against right side of
shell. Place front pieces onto linings, right side against right side
and sew armscye seams (6). Leave side seam raw and sew bottom and front
edges
(7). Leave shoulder seam raw. Turn front pieces right side out and press.
15
Men/Young Men’s Collection
BACK DARTS, FACING, AND LINING (8-13)
Sew back darts closed on back shell and lining (8).
Sew back seam (9). Iron interfacing to neck facing (10) and armscye (11)
facings. Zigzag facings onto lining, with their wrong side against
lining's right side. Sew back seam of lining (12). Place back piece onto
back piece of lining, right sides together, and sew along hem (13).
Press. Leave all other seams raw.
JOINING FRONT AND BACK SECTIONS (14-17)
Sandwich front pieces between back piece and back
lining as follows: Place front pieces between back piece and back
lining. Right side of front piece is against right side of back and
right side of front piece's lining is against right side of back piece's
lining. Pin side and shoulder seams through all layers of fabric. Sew a
continuous seam along side seam (14), back armscye (15), shoulder (16)
and part of neck (17). This way, you sew the front and back side seams
and shoulder seams simultaneously. Sew other side of the vest the same
way. Leave a hole at back of neck for turning the vest right side out.
Turn the vest right side out. Close hole at back
neck by hand. Sew buttonholes and fasten buttons to center front.
Edgestitch if desired. Do final pressing.
16
PatternMaker Software
Measuring for Men's Garments
1.body height
2.neck circumference
3.chest circumference
4.waist circumference
5.hip circumference
6.chest width (Front Width)
7.back length
8.back width
9.sleeve length
10.knee circumference
11.outside seam length
12.inside seam length
Following are the instructions on how to measure for PatternMaker men's macros.
You will need three pieces of elastic or heavy twill
tape, a measuring tape, and another person to read the measuring tape,
if you are the subject. Don't try to take the measurements yourself,
because bending over to read the tape will distort the measurements.
Stand straight but relaxed when you are being measured. You will receive
the best results if the measurements are taken over underwear. Take
measurements accurate to the nearest ¼ inch or ½ centimeter.
Place 1” (3 cm) wide elastic bands around the chest,
waist and hip. Search carefully for the correct places of these elastic
bands. Waist elastic should be at the natural waistline for shirt,
jacket, and vest macros. For the pants macro only, the waist elastic
should lie around the point where you want your pants’ waistband to fit.
For all other patterns, be sure that the elastic is level from front to
back. Hip elastic goes around the points where your hip circumference
is maximum (these may not be the points that look largest in profile).
It is IMPORTANT to use the elastic bands throughout
all measuring. ALL VERTICAL MEASUREMENTS ARE TAKEN FROM AND TO THE LOWER
EDGE OF ELASTIC BANDS. Don’t remove the elastic until all necessary
measurements have been taken.
Except for pants' and sleeve cuff circumference and
jacket length, you should use the actual body measurements. DO NOT ADD
ANY EASE to the measurements, the program does it for you. DO NOT
TIGHTEN MEASURING TAPE.
You can use either centimeters or inches. Give inches in fractions
PatternMaker Software
Men’s Measuring Chart
Name: ___________________________
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Date: ___________
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SHIRT AND JACKET
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1
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Body Height: Measure the full height of the subject.
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2
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Neck Circumference: Measure around lowest part of neck, at the base.
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3
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Chest Circumference: Marked with elastic. Measure around the fullest part of the
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chest, under armpits, keeping the tape high at the back.
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4
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Waist Circumference: Measure waist at elastic.
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5
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Hip Circumference: Measured over the largest part of the subject’s bottom/thighs at
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elastic.
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6
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Chest Width: Measure across chest at widest point from sleeve seam to sleeve seam.
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Hold your arms relaxed at your sides. Measure at the points where the arms touch the
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body.
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